Greetings and Happy New Year 2019 to all! I am writing this on an airplane heading back to San Francisco. What does Ravinder do for the winter break? He visits all of his homelands; Sweden, Lithuania and India. It is the first time after several years that I didn’t do any field work: generally I am out working with birds. However, the project in Cameroon is on hold due to the precarious and dangerous situation in the South West Region. Last year, I was in Guyana, but the money is hard to get for these exotic expeditions. Instead I ended up spending the winter break with family and friends.

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Goa is as it’s supposed to be. The water in the sea is warm and nurturing, and the waves spill over the soft sandy beach as if they were gentle tongues licking up powdery sugar. I dive in. A few times I saw some hat-sized purple jellyfish swimming slowly, but otherwise it is void of much life. It is so warm, and gentle, that I can stay in indefinitely. Goa is a tremendous location for a family reunion in honor of my father who passed away in 2018. He would come here nearly every year for a vacation. The tradition is to hold a final memorial ceremony in the 11^th month after the death, and I, being the only son, was given the honor of performing the Hindu rituals.

We held the ceremony in Benaulim at the bright yellow Laxmi Temple. Three pandits (there could have been up to 11) provided us the guidance. Each was well versed in the Sanskrit chants and symbolism of the mandalas. I was dressed as the pandits, with a dhoti and a bare chest. Sitting cross legged, they motioned to me all the required tasks that I was to perform. I had a yellow marigold to sprinkle holy water, and I used my right hand to throw rice and black sesame seeds at the corners of the mandala that represented my father and my ancestors, plus the various deities. The holy thread around my body keeps switching from the right side, for the gods, to the left side, for whenever I approached my paternal ancestors. It is all very patriarchal, and there is no mention of women; I only blessed my father, my grandfather, and my great grandfather. I do not understand the intricate symbolism, nor the various languages that are being spoken; Sanskrit, Konkani, and some Hindi.  I repeat the chants, and throw ghee into the holy fire. I am not much of a believer, but I see this as the final ceremony in the release of my father. Following the ceremony, we ate a light vegan lunch in the temple. This event brought us all together near a beautiful beach that he loved, and we could feel his presence.

Goa still has the influence of the Portuguese who had held it as a colony for hundreds of years. The capital city, Panaji, maintains a lot of the old architecture, and the Latin Quarter seems right out of a small Iberian city. Many Goans are eligible for Portuguese passports and it is one of the wealthiest states in India. We talked to a young nurse while in a taxi ride, and she explained how all religious groups co-exist peacefully in Goa, but even so, there is corruption. Deforestation is rampant, to make space for all the immigrants from the neighboring states that come for the free hospitals and the generally better living conditions. The tourism creates wealth, but also problems with overexploitation of resources. But overall, I saw only extremely clean beaches, and very generous and helpful people. There are so many people in India, that the service staffs at the hotel are omnipresent and eager to provide assistance. The food at our Mahindra time-share is outstanding, with fresh dosas every morning, and a full vegetarian buffet each evening. Street food like pani puri adds to the girth of my suntanned stomach.

Our world is so small, and I flew quickly from cold dark Sweden to vibrant colorful tropical Goa. Sweden at Christmas time is lovely in a completely different way. It is full of lights and dressed up windows.  This was the first Christmas without my father, so somewhat melancholy. But we retain the traditions and cherish the time we have together. New Years with good friends overlooked the fireworks of Stockholm. I enjoy watching the people in their woolen coats. I enjoy riding on the subways, swimming at the large indoor pool at Erikdalsbadet, and ice-skating in the free ice-rink next to the forest where I do my daily runs.

Vilnius is also my home. I was a member a thesis defense committee of a PhD student, so I stayed in my mom’s apartment for a few nights. I wouldn’t say days, because there really is not much light. At the Nature Research Centre, I am an honorary member of the department, since I am there so regularly, and have been collaborating with them since 2001. I tried to ask insightful questions and brainstorm about potential ramifications of the research. We celebrated the student’s success with a nice meal of Lithuanian salads in the lab. The Cathedral Square in Vilnius had a very delightful modernistic Christmas tree, surrounded by huts selling handmade socks and traditional foods.  On the walls of the cathedral, there was a sound and light show depicting the birth of Jesus. It was flashy, but naively sweet; I expect that probably at some time in the future, such overt displays of religion will be frowned upon as they are in Western Europe. 

A quick trip to Copenhagen from Stockholm rounded out the European experience. Even though Copenhagen is so close to Sweden, it feels more European.  I don’t know how to explain that, but the architecture, and the streets, plus the many bicycles make it more continental. People dress differently, and there seem to be more hidden venues. It is a 5-hour train ride from Stockholm, and a lovely romantic getaway with close friends. It was the first time that I saw the changing of the guard and also the State Museum for Art. Miserable weather, but a pleasure to see Christiania and stay in Christainhavn.

Soon I will get back to my home in San Francisco, and face all the work that has been piling up in my absence. I view my life now in my 50s as one in constant movement, with memories piling up every day. I wish everyone who reads this a wonderful continuation of 2019. I would love to hear from you.